Top-Of-The-Line Sushi in Port Washington

I just had a good feeling about Yamaguchi when I walked in. Elderly Japanese women were happily chatting at the sushi bar, and a couple waited for a table to empty. Also, the sign font was right. This may sound strange, but I avoid Japanese restaurants which use the "bamboo" font in their logos.

Soon, I realized that I had found a beloved neighborhood gem. (What a wonderful feeling that is.) I sat down at the sushi bar and ordered the sushi sashimi lunch. I also attempted to order a tempura appetizer, but the waitress dissuaded me, saying I'd be too full. She was right. I couldn't even finish all the crimson slivers of tuna sashimi, buttery yellowtail slabs, sesame-sprinkled cucumber rolls, shrimp, fluke, clam, egg and salmon. And this was just the lunch portion!

Yamaguchi is for the purist; you won't find any spicy mayonnaisey maki here, but you'll be totally fulfilled by the excellent quality of the fish.

Restaurant Yamaguchi: 63 Main St., Port Washington, LI (516) 883-3500. Worth the trip from Manhattan, just take the Port Washington line from Penn Station.